Previous – Section 20: Volcán Antillanca

Alternate Route

We did not do approximately 37 km of the mapped section from Las Gaviotas to the middle of the paddle of Lago Todos Los Santos due to an attractive alternate. To reach the beginning of the alternate, it is possible to catch a bus from Puerto Varas to Ensenada along 225-CH. You can then hitch north along U-55-V to Puerto Klocker. Follow U-963 east from Puerto Klocker, to its terminus. There is a small cafetería and good camping located here on CONAF land. A well maintained trail winds around the north side of Volcán Osorno and ends at the west bank of Lago Todos Los Santos. Walk south along the lake to Petrohué which is a small town with some lodging but limited resupply options. There is a little café that serves expensive snack foods and burgers (3.500 CLP) and a pricey restaurant located in the hotel. From there, we paddled east on the Lago Todos Los Santos until rejoining the route.

Volcán Osorno.
Stunning sight of Lago Todos Los Santos while contouring Volcán Osorno.

There is little boat traffic from approximately 13 km into the paddle of Lago Todos Los Santos to the take out since most traffic turns north at Isla Margarita. Camping is limited along the shoreline due to the thick foliage and steep grade. The few obvious beaches are privately owned, however the locals may allow camping on the land if asked nicely.  

Sorry for the potato quality; taking pictures in the rain from a packraft is difficult. Here is one of the many private residences along the shores of Lago Todos Los Santos.

At the end of the paddle, there is an obvious beach just west of the river inlet with a house visible further back from the shore. DO NOT TAKE OUT ON THIS BEACH. It is private and the land owner has asked that hikers take out at the smaller public beach located approximately 1 km northwest from his land (to the right from the southbound paddler’s perspective). As of 2017 this has not yet been confirmed, however the caretaker said there is a road that begins at the public beach and leads back to the GPS route.

The road is generally well maintained but frequently switches between 4WD and single track. The forest is fairly dense on either side, however camping is possible. GPT21H splits from GPT21RP right before Lago Cayutué. There is a potential campsite here next to an old wooden structure a couple hundred meters up the GPT21P route. Along the hiking route, there are several hundred meters of bushwhacking but the single track trail eventually reestablishes. This trail transitions to a gravel road at the top of the climb (elevation 500 m). There are limited camping options once on this road due to dense forest and an abundance of private land. This road ends at V-69, a paved road. Packrafters may paddle the Relocaví Estuary or roadwalk to Cochamó.

Descending toward Cochamó with the Relocaví Estuary in sight. 

Town: Cochamó

Cochamó is the gateway to La Junta, also known as the Yosemite of Chile, which is a popular climbing destination. It is possible to resupply out of the several small markets located here but somewhat expensive. There are several restaurants, including a delicious pizzaría, and many housing options.  

Next – Section 22: Cochamó